Before You Start the Inspection
The inspection itself takes 2-3 hours for a 2-3BHK apartment. Rushing it defeats the purpose. Here is how to prepare.
Timing
- Schedule the inspection 7-10 days before your planned move-in date. This gives the contractor time to fix issues without delaying your move
- Inspect during daytime (10 AM-3 PM) with natural light streaming in. Artificial lighting hides paint defects, colour variations, and surface irregularities
- Do not combine the inspection with the handover meeting. They should be separate events
Tools to Bring
- Phone with camera: Photograph every defect. A snag list without photos is easily disputed
- Spirit level (small): For checking cabinet alignment, countertop level, and false ceiling flatness. Available for ₹200-400 at any hardware store
- Coin or small marble: For the hollow tile test (tap each tile and listen for a hollow sound)
- Phone charger: For testing electrical outlets in every room
- Bucket of water: For testing floor drain slopes in bathrooms, kitchen, and balcony
- Notebook or printed checklist: For documenting findings on the spot
Documents to Carry
- Original BOQ (Bill of Quantities) with material specifications
- Approved design drawings and layout plans
- Any change orders or modifications agreed during execution
- Payment schedule showing remaining balance
The Payment Leverage Rule
Never release the final 5-10% of payment before completing this inspection and getting all snag list items resolved. This retention amount is your only leverage to ensure the contractor fixes issues. Once you pay 100%, your priority drops to near-zero. This is not distrust; it is standard practice in professional interior contracts.
Kitchen Checklist: 12 Inspection Points
The kitchen is the most complex interior element with the highest failure rate. Inspect every component systematically.
| # | Check Point | How to Test | What Failure Looks Like |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Soft-close on all doors | Open each door to 90 degrees, let go. Should close silently in 2-3 seconds | Door slams, bounces back, or does not close fully. Hinge adjustment needed |
| 2 | Soft-close on all drawers | Pull each drawer fully out, push back with moderate force. Should slide closed silently | Drawer jams mid-way, makes grinding noise, or does not fully close. Runner alignment issue |
| 3 | Edge banding integrity | Run your finger along every edge of every cabinet, shelf, and drawer. Feel for gaps or ridges | Fingernail catches in a gap between edge band and board. Moisture entry point |
| 4 | Countertop joint sealing | Check all joints where countertop meets wall, backsplash, and at L/U corners. Press firmly along joints | Visible gap, missing silicone, or cracked silicone. Water will seep behind the countertop |
| 5 | Countertop level | Place spirit level along the countertop length. Check both front-to-back and left-to-right | Visible tilt. Water pools at one end instead of draining toward the sink |
| 6 | Sink drainage | Fill sink completely, release. Water should drain fully in under 30 seconds. Check under-sink for leaks while draining | Slow drainage (pipe slope issue) or water dripping at pipe joints under the sink |
| 7 | Plywood grade verification | Check IS stamp on any visible carcass edge (inside a corner cabinet or behind the hob cutout) | IS:303 (BWR) when BOQ specifies IS:710 (BWP). Material substitution |
| 8 | Accessories function | Test every pull-out (cutlery tray, bottle rack, corner carousel, tall unit pull-out) under realistic load | Accessory does not extend fully, jams under load, or makes metallic scraping sound |
| 9 | Backsplash sealing | Check where backsplash meets countertop. Press along the entire length | Gap or missing sealant. Cooking splashes will enter behind the backsplash causing mold |
| 10 | Hob and chimney cutouts | Verify hob cutout is sealed with heat-resistant sealant. Check chimney duct is properly connected and sealed | Raw cutout edges without sealant. Heat and grease will damage exposed board edges |
| 11 | Cabinet alignment | Stand at one end of the kitchen and look along the cabinet line. Upper and lower cabinets should be perfectly aligned | Visible waviness or gaps between adjacent units. Adjustment or shimming needed |
| 12 | Laminate/shutter finish | Inspect each shutter surface under natural light at a 45-degree angle. Look for bubbles, chips, scratches, or colour mismatches | Visible defects in the laminate surface. Shutter replacement needed (cannot be repaired on-site) |
Wardrobe Checklist: 8 Inspection Points
| # | Check Point | How to Test | What Failure Looks Like |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Door/shutter alignment | Close all doors. Gap between doors should be uniform (2-3mm). No door should scrape against another | Uneven gaps, doors touching, or visible tilt. Hinge adjustment needed |
| 2 | Sliding door track (if applicable) | Slide each door back and forth 10 times. Should glide smoothly without lifting or jumping off track | Door sticks, wobbles, or makes grinding noise. Track alignment or roller issue |
| 3 | Drawer runners | Pull each drawer fully out and push back. Load with 5-10 kg weight and repeat | Drawer sags under load, does not extend fully, or jams when closing |
| 4 | Internal shelf stability | Press down on each shelf with moderate force. Shelf should not flex more than 2-3mm | Excessive flex indicates thin board or insufficient support. Shelf will sag under clothes weight |
| 5 | Hanging rod strength | Apply downward pressure on the hanging rod (simulate 15-20 hangers with clothes). Rod should not bend or pull away from supports | Rod bends or support brackets loosen. Common issue with thin aluminum rods |
| 6 | Edge banding (same as kitchen) | Run finger along all visible and internal edges. Check shelf fronts, drawer edges, and partition edges | Gaps in edge banding. Moisture entry leading to board swelling over time |
| 7 | Loft alignment and access | Check loft shutter alignment. Verify hinges or lift mechanism works. Ensure loft floor is level and edge-banded | Loft shutters do not align, hinges are stiff, or internal floor has raw edges |
| 8 | Lock mechanism (if specified) | Test lock and key operation on all lockable sections. Key should turn smoothly without forcing | Lock mechanism stiff, key does not turn fully, or lock does not engage |
Electrical Checklist: 8 Inspection Points
| # | Check Point | How to Test | What Failure Looks Like |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Every switch operates correctly | Flip every switch in every room. Verify it controls the intended light/fan/outlet | Dead switches, switches controlling wrong fixtures, or switches with no tactile click |
| 2 | Every outlet has power | Plug your phone charger into every outlet in every room. Verify charging indicator appears | Dead outlets. Usually a wiring connection issue inside the switch board |
| 3 | MCB/RCCB panel labeling | Open the main electrical panel. Every MCB should be labeled (kitchen, bedroom 1, AC circuit, geyser, etc.) | Unlabeled MCBs make future troubleshooting a nightmare. Insist on clear labeling before handover |
| 4 | AC points and drainage | Check AC point location, power outlet, and drain pipe placement for each AC unit | Outlet too far from AC position, drain pipe slope insufficient, or drain not connected |
| 5 | Under-cabinet lighting (kitchen) | Test all under-cabinet LED strips or puck lights. Verify brightness and colour temperature | Dead lights, flickering, or wrong colour temperature (yellow instead of specified warm white) |
| 6 | Dimmer switches (if specified) | Test full dimming range from minimum to maximum on all dimmer circuits | Dimmer does not go to full brightness, buzzes at certain levels, or light flickers when dimmed |
| 7 | Switch board alignment | Check that all switch boards are level, flush with the wall, and at consistent heights across rooms | Tilted switch boards, gap between board and wall, or inconsistent heights between rooms |
| 8 | Earthing test | Use a simple socket tester (₹200-400) to verify earthing on every three-pin outlet | No earth detected. Safety hazard, especially for geysers, washing machines, and kitchen appliances |
Plumbing Checklist: 7 Inspection Points
| # | Check Point | How to Test | What Failure Looks Like |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | All taps deliver hot and cold water | Turn on every tap (kitchen, bathroom basin, shower, bathtub). Verify both hot and cold lines work | No water from one line, hot/cold lines reversed, or extremely low pressure on upper floors |
| 2 | Water pressure consistency | Turn on 3-4 taps simultaneously. Pressure should remain usable at each point | Dramatic pressure drop when multiple taps are open. Pipe sizing or booster pump issue |
| 3 | Drain slope test | Pour a bucket of water on bathroom floor, kitchen floor, and balcony. Water should flow toward the drain, not pool anywhere | Water pools in corners or near the door instead of draining. Floor slope was not maintained during tiling |
| 4 | Flush mechanism | Flush every toilet 3-4 times in succession. Flush should be strong and tank should refill within 60-90 seconds | Weak flush, slow refill, running water after flush, or visible leaks at the base |
| 5 | Under-sink leak check | Run water for 5 minutes with the sink filled. Place dry newspaper under the sink. Check for any moisture | Wet newspaper indicates a slow leak at pipe joints. Common issue that causes cabinet damage if undetected |
| 6 | Geyser connection | Verify geyser point has proper electrical outlet, cold water inlet, hot water outlet, and safety valve | Missing safety valve (pressure relief), incorrect pipe connections, or inadequate electrical point |
| 7 | Washing machine outlet | Check that washing machine area has: dedicated water inlet tap, drain outlet at correct height, and dedicated electrical outlet | Drain at wrong height (causes backflow), no dedicated tap, or outlet not on its own MCB circuit |
Paint and Wall Finish Checklist: 6 Inspection Points
| # | Check Point | How to Test | What Failure Looks Like |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Colour consistency | Check each wall under natural light. Compare adjacent walls in the same room for colour match | Visible colour variation between walls or patches. Usually caused by inconsistent mixing or touch-up with different batch paint |
| 2 | Surface smoothness | Run your palm across walls at eye level. Look at the wall at a shallow angle (10-15 degrees) with natural light hitting from the side | Bumps, ridges, roller marks, or brush streaks. Indicates insufficient putty work or rushed painting |
| 3 | Edge and corner finish | Check where walls meet the ceiling, where different paint colours meet, and around switch boards | Wavy paint lines, paint on ceiling edges, or paint splatter on switch boards. Masking was not done properly |
| 4 | Behind furniture areas | Before modular units are pushed against walls, check paint finish behind wardrobe and kitchen locations | Incomplete painting, no primer coat, or rough finish in areas that will be "hidden." Affects moisture resistance |
| 5 | Texture/accent wall finish | Verify texture consistency across the entire accent wall. Check for pattern irregularities or seams | Inconsistent texture depth, visible seams between sections, or colour variation in textured areas |
| 6 | Paint brand verification | Ask to see the empty paint cans on-site. Verify the brand, variant, and colour code match the BOQ specification | Different paint brand or cheaper variant than specified. Common substitution: Asian Tractor Emulsion instead of specified Royale Luxury Emulsion |
False Ceiling Checklist: 5 Inspection Points
| # | Check Point | How to Test | What Failure Looks Like |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Level and flatness | Stand at one end of the room and look along the ceiling. Use spirit level on accessible edges | Visible sagging, waviness, or uneven drops between sections. Framing issue underneath |
| 2 | Joint finish | Look at joints between gypsum boards under natural light. Joints should be invisible after taping and painting | Visible joint lines, cracking at joints, or ridges. Insufficient taping compound or rushed drying |
| 3 | Light fixture alignment | Turn on all ceiling lights. Check that recessed lights are evenly spaced and all at the same depth | Uneven spacing, some lights sitting deeper than others, or visible gaps around light cutouts |
| 4 | Cove lighting uniformity | Turn on cove (indirect) lighting. Walk around the room checking for bright spots, dark patches, or visible LED strips | Uneven light wash, visible LED dots (strip too close to the edge), or sections darker than others |
| 5 | Access panels | Verify access panels are installed near AC ducts, junction boxes, and plumbing risers for future maintenance | No access panels. Future AC or plumbing maintenance will require cutting the false ceiling |
Flooring Checklist: 5 Inspection Points
| # | Check Point | How to Test | What Failure Looks Like |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Hollow tile test | Tap every tile with a coin or the back of a spoon. A solid tile produces a dull thud. A hollow tile produces a distinct higher-pitched sound | Hollow sound indicates insufficient adhesive underneath. The tile will crack under heavy furniture or foot traffic |
| 2 | Grout consistency | Check grout lines across the floor. Width should be consistent (2-3mm). Grout should be clean and fully filled | Inconsistent grout width, partially filled joints, or grout already cracking. Water entry and dirt accumulation |
| 3 | Tile alignment and leveling | Run your hand across tile joints. No tile edge should be higher than its neighbour (lippage). Place a straight edge across multiple tiles | Noticeable lippage (one tile sitting higher) causes tripping and looks unprofessional. Acceptable lippage is under 1mm |
| 4 | Floor-to-wall skirting | Check skirting tiles or profiles along all walls. Should be straight, level, and uniformly attached | Gaps behind skirting, uneven skirting heights, or broken skirting tiles |
| 5 | Threshold transitions | Check floor transitions at doorways between rooms and between flooring types (tile to wood, tile to bathroom) | Abrupt height differences, missing transition strips, or exposed tile edges at doorways |
Doors and Windows Checklist: 4 Inspection Points
| # | Check Point | How to Test | What Failure Looks Like |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Door operation | Open and close every door 5-6 times. Should swing freely without scraping the floor or frame | Door scrapes floor (warped or misaligned), does not latch properly, or handle is loose |
| 2 | Door frame seal | Close the door and check the gap between door and frame on all four sides. Gap should be uniform (3-5mm) | Uneven gaps, light visible from one side, or door not sitting flush with the frame |
| 3 | Window sealing | Check window frame sealing with the wall. Close windows and check for daylight gaps. Check rubber gaskets on sliding windows | Gaps around window frame (rain water entry during Bangalore monsoon), missing or dried-out gaskets |
| 4 | Hardware quality | Test all door handles, locks, tower bolts, door stoppers, and window latches | Loose handles, locks that do not engage fully, missing door stoppers (door handle hits wall) |
How to Create and Use an Interior Snag List
A snag list is your formal record of defects found during inspection. Without it, issues are verbal complaints that are easily forgotten or disputed.
Snag List Format
For each defect, record:
| Field | Example |
|---|---|
| Serial number | 1 |
| Room/Area | Kitchen |
| Element | Upper cabinet, 3rd from left |
| Defect | Edge banding gap on right side shelf edge (2mm visible gap) |
| Photo reference | IMG_4521.jpg |
| Priority | High (moisture entry risk) |
| Agreed resolution date | April 5, 2026 |
| Status | Open |
Snag List Rules
- Document everything: Even minor issues. A small edge banding gap today becomes a swollen cabinet in 2 years
- Photograph every defect: Phone camera with timestamp. Verbal descriptions are disputed; photos are not
- Both parties sign: Get the contractor's site supervisor or project manager to co-sign the snag list during the walkthrough
- Set deadlines: Each snag item should have an agreed resolution date. "We will fix it" without a date means it will not get fixed
- Link to payment: Final payment release is conditional on all High and Medium priority snag items being resolved and verified
- Re-inspect after fixes: Once the contractor claims snag items are resolved, do a second walkthrough to verify. Check specifically that fixes did not create new problems
Typical Snag Count
For a well-executed 2-3BHK interior project in Bangalore, expect 8-15 snag items on the first inspection. For a poorly executed project, expect 25-40+. Zero snags on first inspection either means extremely high-quality execution (rare) or an insufficiently thorough inspection (common).
When to Consider a Third-Party Inspector
For projects above ₹15L, consider hiring an independent interior inspector (₹5,000-₹15,000 in Bangalore). They bring trained eyes, professional tools (moisture meter, multimeter, digital level), and an unbiased perspective. They catch issues homeowners miss: out-of-level cabinets within the "looks fine" range, hollow tiles in corners, insufficient waterproofing membrane application, and wire gauge mismatches. The inspection cost is under 1% of a typical project and can save lakhs in post-move-in repairs.
Frequently Asked Questions
What should I check before accepting interior handover?
Check all cabinet doors and drawers for soft-close function, edge banding integrity, countertop joint sealing, every electrical switch and outlet, plumbing pressure and leaks, paint finish under natural light, false ceiling level and joints, flooring alignment and hollow tiles, and waterproofing in wet areas. Create a formal snag list and hold 5-10% payment until all issues are resolved.
How do I check modular kitchen quality during handover?
Open and close every door and drawer 5-6 times for soft-close. Run fingers along all edge banding for gaps. Check countertop joints for silicone sealing. Verify plywood grade stamps (IS:710 for BWP). Test all accessories under load. Run water in sink and check under-sink for leaks. Inspect laminate surfaces under natural light at 45 degrees.
What is an interior snag list and why is it important?
A snag list documents all defects found during inspection with photos, locations, and agreed resolution dates. It is critical because getting contractors to fix issues after final payment is extremely difficult. Hold 5-10% of payment until all snag items are resolved. Both parties should sign the snag list during the walkthrough.
How many days before moving in should I do the interior inspection?
Do the inspection 7-10 days before planned move-in. This gives the contractor time to fix snag items. Inspect during daytime (10 AM-3 PM) with natural light. Schedule a separate 2-3 hour slot for inspection, not combined with the handover meeting.
Should I hire a third-party inspector for interior handover?
For projects above ₹15L, yes. Independent inspectors charge ₹5,000-₹15,000 in Bangalore and catch issues homeowners miss: out-of-level cabinets, hollow tiles, waterproofing gaps, wire gauge mismatches. The cost is under 1% of a typical project.
Key Takeaways
- Inspect 7-10 days before move-in during daytime with natural light. Allow 2-3 hours minimum
- Hold 5-10% of final payment until all snag list items are resolved. This is your only leverage after handover
- Kitchen is the highest-risk area: Check every hinge, drawer, edge band, countertop joint, and drain
- Test every switch and outlet in every room. Dead outlets are the most common electrical issue
- Do the hollow tile test on every tile. Hollow tiles crack under furniture weight within months
- Document everything with photos. Verbal snag lists are disputed. Photo evidence is not
- Get the contractor to co-sign the snag list with agreed resolution dates
- Re-inspect after fixes. Verify that fixes did not create new problems
At Gunmala Interiors, every project includes a structured handover walkthrough with a checklist-based inspection, documented snag resolution, and warranty sign-off. We hold ourselves to the same standards this guide describes. Visit gunmala.in to learn about our handover process.